Question: Looking forward to seeing your install on F850GS Adventure, and would like to learn that power hub2 if have any issue with BMW power management system, some riders concern on that and would like to use Hex eZCAN to connect the can bus on motorcycle, eZCAN retail price is USD185. Answers: (made by Bruce Cole, skilled and knowledgeable ) Re the F850GS Adventure – the plan is to do an initial overview then a longer term follow-up in spring/summer, once I’ve accumulated more time and distance on it. But any of the accessories installed that are written up for individual reviews will of course feature the motorcycle as well. PowerHub2 – there should be no issues with BMW on-board systems. As long as the main connections are made to the battery or an equivalent source and the switched trigger lead is connected to something like a switched accessory lead, license plate light or accessory DIN outlet, then there is no impact, or should not be – but I read of issues almost every day, usually due to users not understanding things. One of the best things of the PowerHub products is that they are small and easy to install, providing users with five switched outputs for those things that don’t need to be or can’t be managed best by a CAN-based accessory manager, like the HEX ezCAN or Denali CANsmart or Clearwater CANopener, or… The CAN-based managers are excellent products in their own right – I use and install all of them and help evaluate beta firmware, etc. But optimal use of these products are for accessories that can be or need to be ‘managed’, such as switched lights or those that users want as adjustable that can then be done using a handlebar control and the multi-Function-controller or Jog Wheel; this is where the CAN-based systems come into their own. And yes, their output circuits can now be set to function as straight power outlets, but in many instances, this isn’t the optimal use of the system (although having PWM adjustable output for a heated gear circuit is one very good application for these systems other than for lighting). But if something like a CAN-based accessory manager isn’t needed, but switched power is, then the Power Hub devices are far more applicable and effective. Many of us have a CAN-based controller for our front and rear facing lighting (providing tail/brake/deceleration-based output based on the onboard sensor and controller data) and we also have a separate power distribution module of some sort (be they straight switched outputs or PWM capable outputs – like the Neutrino Black Box systems). And where basic switched outputs will meet requirements, the Power Hub products are hard to beat regarding simplicity, effectiveness and cost. As way of example, the F850GS Adventure will use a Power Hub 2 to provide switched power for two 2.4A USB outlets, the Admore SB Light Bar (rear-facing auxiliary LED product), a set of bi-colour handguard LEDs and, if so needed down the road, power for the rear-facing auxiliary LEDs kits typically installed on a top-box and/or side panniers.
Sorry for delayed reply.
Joined Yellow wire and red wire from the K1 converter and wire to the red out put wire of the power hub1.
The black wire is to the black out put wire of the power hub1.
Ahh ok, what I dud was connect the yellow wire to the power output of the hub 1 and the red wire to the battery. I thought that the K1 would require power all the time with a switched ignition off the power hub output. Is this not recommended ?
You need to change the connection to below,
Joined Yellow wire and red wire from the K1 converter and wire to the red out put wire of the power hub1.
The black wire is to the black out put wire of the power hub1.
Once ignition off, the power to the power hub1 top, now worrying.
Ok I can do that but it dose say in the K1 wiring diagram that the red wire goes to the battery. ( I assumed this would keep the unit charged ). What does ( Once ignition off, the power to the power hub1 top, now worrying) meen?
If without power hub1, you can follow up the instruction from the converter:
1. the red wire to the positive terminal of battery,
2. the black wire to the negative terminal of battery.
3. Yellow wire to the switched power source.
Now you have the power hub1, follow up below,
Joined Yellow wire and red wire from the K1 converter and wire to the red out put wire of the power hub1.
The black wire is to the black out put wire of the power hub1.
Should it make any difference? I have noticed that sometime the unit freezes, sometimes I get recording stopped repeated over and over and I have to pull the battery out the K1
Yes, it will be difference.
You can click below link to download the trouble shooting document and do check accordingly. we will review together to see what is wrong indeed.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/6gv7f3xfwmpyu88/AACHm2PcYj-jHD6gzVKVJuqTa?dl=0
Damian,
Did the Powerhub 1 solve the K1 freezing issues? I am having the same problems with it and do not have a Powerhub. Actually getting a bit fed up with this thing, cause it is very random.
Nope unfortunately the K1 is full of problem. Real big waste of money and anytime a biker asks me I now recommend the v-sys x2. It's amazing just works with no issues. If only I had looked at this forum would of saved me alot of money.
PowerHub does not fix K1 issues
The Power Hub can avoid the voltage drops when engine starts, that may impacts the camera system to work properly. Your issue caused by the interference generated from engine running, I suggest you can refer below to add RF chocks to improve the RF interference.
http://www.innovv.com/single-post/2017/03/16/EMI-from-Motorcycle-and-Solution