Below is the Design,
The input has three wires,
Red wire to the positive terminal of battery.
Black wire to the negative terminal of battery.
Yellow wire/ Acc to the ignition/ switched power source.
The out put also has three pins as below,
Red pin + Black pin = Out put 5.3V, that is to power up the camera system.
Yellow pin + Black pin = Out put 5.0V, that is the signal to trigger the camera system starting or stopping work.
The converter can detect the Voltage of battery, more than 12V or less, and that generates two different performance.
When Motorcycle battery is more than 12V,
First turn on ignition,
Red pin and Yellow pin output 5.3V and 5V to power up the camera system 10 seconds later.
Then turn ignition off,
Yellow pin output will be 0V after 5 seconds, the camera system stop recording and save the last video clips.
Red pin output still has 5.3V output, but the camera system stop recording after 5 seconds and stand by.
Turn ignition on again,
Same as the first run.
When Motorcycle battery is less than 12V.
the difference compared to the battery is more than 12V is after turn ignition off, Yellow pin output will be 0V after 5 seconds, and Red pin out put will be 0V after 10 seconds. that is to protect the motorcycle battery does not drain.
To enable the parking mode to work after motorcycle parked, just need to switch the parking mode on setting from App as below,
If motorcycle get hit or sharking, it will be recorded in Parking folder.
Hi,
My tests when ACC is off:
Battery >11,7V power consumption 44mA.
Battery <11,7V power consumption 8mA.
Is this correct? 44mA, I think it's too much.
Can you double check, it can not get 44mA.
We tested it is 22mA only.
Battery < 12V, the power consumption is low to protect the battery without drain.
I check with multimeter. 46mA.
I agree that the 'off' drain is pretty high. Came out to an almost-dead battery this morning, after a three day weekend. Bike was able to crank slowly, but wouldn't start. Had to bump-start by rolling down the hill.
46mA is enough to drain the battery completely in about 9 days (~10Ah battery), but you don't need to drain the battery nearly that much to be unable to start the bike.
For a daily commuter like mine it's not such a big deal, but for a less-used bike this would be pretty bad.
Also, a 12V cutoff is far too low. At C/100, 12V represents approximately 10% state of charge - cutting off at 12V is too little too late. 12.5V is about 50% SOC, so I would probably want the cutoff bumped up to 12.5-12.6V, but that's only minimally below the voltage of a fully charged battery so it would be unreliable to determine SOC using voltage at that level.
What is the disadvantage of cutting power completely after killing the ignition? What is the maintenance power used for? Clock? Settings?
Rock Liu: I think, 22mA is also too high.
Does voltage sense happen on the battery+ lead or the ignition trigger? Debating sticking a diode or voltage reg inline to drop the sensed voltage below 12V at all times.
EDIT: logically it must be on the battery+ lead i guess.
Just measured my bike and came up with:
007mA immediately after connecting power - I assume this is the current consumed by the converter.
011mA while waiting for the ignition for the first time
380mA during operation
040mA after ignition off and after subsequent cycles
In an attempt to fool the smart converter into thinking the battery was low, I added a 1N4003 diode on the negative lead. This drops the voltage measured by the DVR by around 0.6 to 0.7V.
This worked, and the DVR now cycles between 7 mA with ignition off and ~400mA with the ignition on. The small bump in operating current draw is expected due to the reduced voltage.
Rock: what behavior should I expect when fully powering off the device each time? Obviously parking mode will be unavailable. Any other problems? Date and time?
EDIT: for people reading this to copy what I did: The diode goes in the negative (black) wire, with the silver line facing the battery. If the DVR fails to turn on, you probably put the diode in backwards.
What is the reason to add the negative lead?
Why do need to get voltage to be low as 0.6 to 0.7V?
Without adding the diode, the currency is 7 mA when ignition off.
I assume the blue connector in the photo is the battery side of the circuit? Thanks.
Yes. Use glue-lined heatshrink to support the leads of the diode, or they'll snap eventually.
and.....
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Rock: what behavior should I expect when fully powering off the device each time? Obviously parking mode will be unavailable. Any other problems? Date and time?
”
Hi
had the same problem today flat battery after 4 days. was thinking about putting a switch on the red wire to turn off the power, switch on before ignition on. was about Rock the same question about date and time.
Sorry for delayed reply. Got out for supplier visit.
Once ignition is off, and the camera system will stop recording after 10 seconds.
If parking mode enabled, the camera system will start to record once motorcycle get hit.
Date and time was save, it was maintained by button battery inside of DVR.
How long does the button cell last when power is removed?
Today was 6 days without riding the, and date + time were preserved. So that's confirmed.
GPS seems to take several minutes to get good data, but I'm not sure if that's because power is being removed? Certainly keeping the GPS active would account for 40mA when 'off'. Could also be a coincidence of course.
Button cell can be last a month.
GPS usually takes less than 5 minutes to get Data, that depends where the motorcycle located.
No power No GPS connection.
You do not need to replace the button battery, it is rechargeable. once you drive again, it will get full charged.
Rock, I really think you need to address these power drain issues. Essentially the advertised parking mode feature is not a viable option in the real world.
Hi Chris, As you have seen the forum set up is to communicate with riders and listen to the feedback. Be sure, have been working on that.
After two days my battery is death. Thank You Innovv. Super :(
This issue is definitely due to GPS getting power when the ignition is off. Before my diode modification, GPS fix was essentially instant - speed was displayed leaving my driveway. Now it takes several minutes.
Hi Sniper1rfa, Thank you for the insight. I had planned to install a switch to totally cut power to the DVR while the ignition is off. In this case, I will just disconnect the GPS module while the ignition is off to prevent it from draining my battery.
This is a very important thread as per my comment in another post.
1. The 40ma draw at bike power off needs to be addressed with the way the smart converter functions.
2. Parking mode as well since this will surely drain the bike if you stay parked without starting for more than a couple of days. I also have an alarm and the natural bike parasitic draw of standard electronics on my Ducati Diavel will drain my battery in no time. I certainly don't want any problems when I am on a bike trip with my freinds having a good time.
Yes, this needs to be addressed. I just finished a 10,000 mile round-country trip, and discovered to my dismay 3000 miles from home that my new lithium-ion battery was too flat even to run the fuel pump after 48 hours, forcing me to purchase a $60 Li-capable battery charger and lose a day on my schedule.
We are listening and working together on the improvement. Your ideas are welcome always.
Base on the above, we are thinking to do below improvement.
1. reduce the power consumption to be 5mA from 8mA.
2. the lowest Voltage before cutting off the power supply changed from 12V to 12.5V.
I believe by this way, would be helpful to avoid the power consumption.
I'm not so sure if reducing to 5mA would be still a low enough draw to not drain the battery prematurely.
I am in total agreement to changing the voltage cutoff at 12.5v.
Most of us have Lithium Ion batteries and they are considered dead at 11.5v - 11.7v
Where are we with this power draw situation? I would envision we would need a firmware update
Click below link, can download the pcb layout of the converter and the spec of its chipset.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zfzvunf8k9vdzio/AAD310Pa_S2EZLkywfHLS6pua?dl=0
...and instructions for disassembly of this module...
any news?
I have a biking holiday in the next few months and am an idiot with bike electrics. Rock, Can we have a simple solution soon as I don't want to be stuck in the middle of a mountain with a flat battery...!!!!
The simplest solution I can see is to have a booster battery/jump start pack with you. If they fix it via firmware before then, then great... but a $40 jump start pack is a cheap/simple way to avoid being stuck out there and is probably something you should have anyway. I take mine everywhere, even though I've never needed it yet.